Ten Penh
A coworker of mine just yesterday realized why this place is called Ten Penh. That's ok, it took me a month to figure out 15ria. Both of them join the ranks of restaurants like 2941 which are necessarily good because their name is their address. It's like they always say with real estate: location, location, location.
Despite having panned it, I can't seem to stay away from Asian fusion (the blend of Asian and Pretense). It's so wonderfully arrogant, and part of me enjoys the horrible service/delicious food combination that accompanies the cuisine. It speaks to the masochist in all of us.
Now in it's 8th year, Ten Penh (and its sister restaurants Ceiba, DC Coast, and Acadiana) are now staples of the DC food world. While none, frankly, rise to the quality/bang-for-the-buck of the Jose Andres fleet, they offer some interesting and creative twists on food genres Jose has never touched. Which is, frankly, the only reason they're still in business.
Ten Penh is unquestionably known for the lobster. A full lobster (shelled but then presented in the shell, so there's no fighting with it) served on a bed of spicy hot crispy spinach. The spinach is amazing, the crunch adds the perfect contrast, the heat gets you in the back of the throat. The lobster is amazing, smooth, silky, tender, other words that could be used to describe a softcore porn. This is what you come to Ten Penh for. But at a market price typically exceeding $40, this is not what you can afford at Ten Penh. My personal suggestion? The lobster is big enough to share. Bring a date, each person should order an appetizer, split the lobster and a dessert, and it'll be plenty of food without creating that "guuuuuu" post-tandoori-feeling.
If that's not your gig, other entrees include the lambchops with chow fun noodles in a mustard-type sauce (3 small chops) or the sea bass on a potato-radish-ginger-cake. Both are good, but the lambchops are a little sauce heavy and the sea bass is missing...something. Maybe just some more seasoning? Not entirely sure on this one. Don't let these criticisms dissuade you - both are fantastic alternatives to the Awe Inspiring Lobster.
For appetizers, the surprise stand out is the Roti stuffed with chicken. Here's where the fusion kicks in - Indian flavors abound in this dish. The duck roll is also fantastic, particularly because they don't leave you feeling greasy, slimy, dirty, and other words that could be used to describe a hardcore porn. Skip the shrimp dumplings - they sound good but they're forgettable. The pork and shrimp spring rolls (as a substitute for the duck) sounds much better, looking back.
And for dessert? Maybe it was because Pupatella hasn't been making them, but I've been craving donuts. Three extremely light donuts covered in cinnamon sugar and served with a chocolate dipping sauce. The perfect bite to end a fantastic meal.
The "Power Corridor" of Washington, so to speak, offers a lot of options. Central, Fogo, Les Halles - they're all lined up next to each other. Just like all the rest, expect great things when you head to Ten Penh.
-M.
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There's only one thing to do around here. Eat.
