Dame Mas

Mas

(Revised 04.09.08)

By the end of three years, I will have eaten at Mas so many times that every item on the menu will be on this list.

Charlottesville continues to surprise and amaze, frankly, and Mas tapas bar may be the pinnacle of trendy dining in this tiny little college town. And while sure, Mas would be considered not-so-hot in Vegas or New York or the other dining capitals of the country, when you want to celebrate Mas may be the best gig in town.


So long as you want to celebrate in the summer.


For a city filled with bars, this whole damn area wouldn't know a good cocktail when it smacked Thomas Jefferson's statue in the face (don't laugh; this tends to happen when Frat boys go crazy). Not so at Mas. The mojitos are a little heavy on the seltzer and a little light on the rum, but if anything that just makes them more dangerous. The bar area is small, though, in keeping with the scale of the whole restaurant, so save the drink orders for the table. The traditional fino to pair with the tapas is a little pricey. But when dining in this Nouveau Spanish cuisine why drink the Staunch Old World wine? Cristalino Cava is also available for a price (a brand which recently won value of the year, and can be purchased at your local grocery store for $8-10/bottle). So really, stick with the hard liquor.

Oh right. They serve food too. Some of the best items are the least Spanish. Hits are the Wagyu beef (remember, it's not Kobe unless the cow is from Kobe, and Japan won't let those touch American shores dead or alive) in truffle oil, the stuffed poblano peppers, and the more traditional anchovies. Figs wrapped in bacon are also delicious - but then, isn't everything wrapped in bacon? Finally, the rack of lamb with 'puffy bread' akin to something in an Indian restaurant is delicious, even though there's cilantro in it (for those that are allergic to cilantro: so am I, and this was the first time I've had cilantro where I could enjoy the meat underneath). It's served rare, as it should be. Order raciones of the most delicious items if your party is larger than 3 - they'll go quickly, and they're the ones you want the most.

Unfortunately, this Spanish-Fusion approach means the Spanish-Traditional takes supporting role. The Manchego cheese and Iberian ham are both pricey and unsatisfying. The ham is cut fairly thick, and lacks the punch of the pork from the source. Beware of ordering a ham and cheese plate - it doesn't come with bread, and you'll be wondering how to go about eating without looking like a fool. It goes without saying that the salads should be avoided - who orders a salad at a tapas bar? Rabbits. That's who.

But all of these issues are easily fixed. Need vegetables without the meat to go along with it? Instead of the salad get the marinated veggie plate - including asparagus, haricot vert, crispy cucumber, and the most delicious mushrooms in the world. It's all topped with a peppery yogurt sauce. This is a wonderful stand-by when no one can decide what they want, and you can tell Mas that a die-hard meat fan told you as much.

And if you're looking for traditional, stay away from the cheese and get the tortilla. It has a thin layer of the ham inside, and just enough coarse salt to give the dish a completely different yet wonderfully familiar flavor. A piece of thick crusty bread is served along side, to mop up the tortilla oil (or better yet, the sauce from one of your other favorite dishes).

The main problem? The seating. What there is is low to the ground, uncomfortable, and unsupportive. Those with back problems might want to wait for the summer time, when the outside patio is open and real chairs are provided. Of course, the trade off is wonderful Belmont traffic and exhaust fumes to mix with that tortilla.
When the outside is closed, the restaurant seats roughly 10 midgets, 12 if they're willing to get comfortable with each other. There is almost no seating on the upper level, and the lower level gives people a nice view of a suspended bathroom. If you think it's uncomfortable while eating, just imagine what it must feel like while...well, you get the idea.

All in all, if you can get a table, you're in for a treat. Unless you hate pork. Stay tuned for something more veggie-friendly in April, when I might actually go kosher? It's doubtful with Mas so close.

-M.